Seam – What’s it? and How you can sew them to your garment.

A seam is a time period that refers back to the stitching line the place two materials are stitched (pieced, in order for you the technical time period) collectively. It’s the primary constructing block of a garment. Seams kind the construction of the garment and assist to create the garment. They’re additionally used as an ornamental characteristic. 

The stitching line alongside the seam is named the seam line. The seam allowance (SA) is the house between the material edge and the seam line. You’ll be able to checkout the put up on seam allowances for some particulars on the way to sew a straight line and the widespread seam allowances used. 

  • 1.Plain seam
  • 2. Plain seam with a single sew
  • 3. Plain seam with double prime sew
  • 4.Hairline seam
  • 5. Lapped seam ( additionally known as Tucked seam)
  • 6.French seam
  • 7.Flat felled seam or Run and fell seam
  • 8. Mock flat fell seam ( additionally Welt seam )
  • 9.Corded or Piped seam
  • 10.Confronted seam
  • 11.Hemmed fell seam
  • 12.Mock French seam (1)
  • 13.Mock French seam (3)
  • 14.Serged seam
  • 15.Slot Seam
  • 16. Counter seam 
  • 17. Butt seams
  • 18. Sheet seam/linen seam 
  • 19. Hand stitched seam – with ladder sew
  • 20. Strap seam
  • 21. Taped seam

How you can determine which seam is appropriate to your stitching.

Seams ought to be rigorously performed for a fantastically completed garment. Not solely that, it also needs to go well with the kind of garment you may have, the material it’s manufactured from and so on. For eg: a flat felled seam is used to stitch denims aspect seams.

There are some issues to consider when deciding what seams to make use of.

Kind of cloth – “What kind of fabric is it ?” is a prime consideration. If it’s a sheer material the seam end you choose might be very completely different from what it can, if the material is a heavy weight Brocade material. A loosely woven cotton seam might be completed otherwise from a rayon mix material seam. A lace material could have a unique seam than a denim material. Here’s a put up detailing all of the sorts of material there are.

Seam placement – A curved seam might be otherwise handled from a straight seam. Whether it is an uncovered seam as in pants, it is going to be completely different from an enclosed seam as in a yoke or a collar.

Stitching machine – What’s your stitching machine able to? What attachments do you may have?, are additionally essential – when you’ve got a serger or no less than a zig zag machine you may have extra potentialities than a easy straight sew machine.

Garment’s goal and use – A toddler’s gown will want a extra sturdy seam than a camisole prime. A marriage robe won’t have the identical seam end as a biker’s gear.

Kinds of Seams

1.Plain seam

In a Plain seam, two materials are joined collectively alongside the seam line by a  line of sewing. Additionally it is known as a single needle Butterfly sew as as soon as the seam is made the seam allowances are pressed open to both aspect of the seam line to seem like a butterfly.

sew plain seam

That is the best and best seam to make. It may be made by hand or machine. Straight stitches are used to make this seam although typically a decent zigzag sew may also be used to make this seam particularly for knit or stretch materials. Extra on straight sew and zig zag sew.

This seam requires a seam end for its uncovered edges.

The benefit of a plain seam is that this seam doesn’t add bulk to the seam strains. However because it has solely a single line of sew the energy of the seam will not be that nice.

how to sew a seam

Apart from the extraordinary foot you employ to stitch, you should utilize a 1/4 inch seam foot for accuracy in stitching a seam with a 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch seam allowance. It might probably assist you to get a steady seam line that has the identical seam allowance. Checkout this put up on utilizing the 1/4 inch seam foot for extra particulars.

quarter inch sewing machine foot


How you can sew a Plain seam

Hold the 2 materials along with proper sides collectively. Be sure that stitching strains are aligned. Pin in place

Sew alongside the road you may have made marking the seam line.

Begin stitching after which do a again sew for energy. On the finish additionally do a again sew after which a ahead sew.

Don’t forget to press the seam open (don’t iron; simply press with a scorching iron)

Extra on the plain seam right here  with Tricks to sew it sturdy and straight, with out bulk {& Sew curves properly}

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One of the simplest ways at hand sew a plain seam is to make use of a again sew or saddle sew. A saddle sew can look precisely like a stitching machine lock sew. You’ll be able to try these posts Saddle Sew and Again sew for detailed steps to  make them.

2. Plain seam with a single sew

A single topstitching seam, this seam is a powerful seam in addition to an ornamental one.


How you can sew a Plain seam with a single overcast sew

To get this impact, after plain seam is completed, press each the seam allowances to at least one aspect and provides prime stitching on that aspect.


Plain seam with double prime sew

Double prime stitching seam; This can be a ornamental seam which additionally gives nice energy to the seam line.


How you can sew a Plain seam with double prime sew

To get this seam, after making the plain seam, seam allowances are pressed open on each the edges and prime stitched on each side of the seam at equal distances.

4.Hairline seam

This can be a sort of enclosed seam which is generally used for collars and different enclosed areas. The seam allowances aren’t seen from the skin because it will get enclosed.

how to sew a seam


How you can sew a Hairline seam

Make a plain seam utilizing a really tight straight sew, with the materials proper aspect collectively. Trim away very near the stitching line. It’s also possible to clip the additional seam allowance until the stitching line after which Press the seam. Make sure that the stitching line will not be reduce as you clip.

Flip proper aspect out.

You may make a prime sew to safe the seam

5. Lapped seam ( additionally known as Tucked seam)

This can be a very helpful seam when stitching with heavy materials like suede, synthetic leather-based, felt.

 lapped seam


How you can sew a Lapped seam

Determine on which material piece might be on prime with the lapped utility. Flip below the seam allowance of that piece alongside the seam line and press in place.

Hold the folded material on prime of the opposite material alongside the seam line. The seam strains ought to align. Pin collectively to maintain it in place. Edge sew near the folded edge


When stitching with heavy materials, as the perimeters of those materials don’t fray, you’ll be able to create this seam by trimming the entire seam allowance of the highest piece. Now the majority is eradicated as there isn’t any material to show below.

6.French seam

That is the very best seam for sheer materials. As this seam encloses the uncooked edges in a fold, the uncooked edges aren’t seen from outdoors with out including a lot bulk. This seam is often performed on straight edges however should you clip properly it may also be performed on curved edges.

French seam

For this seam in contrast to different seams, you must begin with the unsuitable sides of the material collectively matching the stitching strains (as a substitute of proper sides collectively) to make a plain seam.
First on proper aspect of the material, mark the stitching line with 1/2″ seam allowance. Then on the unsuitable aspect, Mark a line half means via the unique seam allowance i.e for a 1/2 inch seam allowance mark a sewing line at 1/4″
Sew the plain seam via this 1/4″ line. (image 1 of the above diagram)
Trim the seam allowance a bit of bit.
Now fold the material over on the seam RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, masking the uncooked edges. Press.
Sew on the unique seam line. (on the 1/2″ mark) proper sides of the material collectively (image 2 of the above diagram)
Press flat after which to at least one aspect.

Now the uncooked edges are properly enclosed within the again.

 french seam

A extra detailed clarification on making a french seam and use it in dressmaking might be discovered right here within the put up – French seam.

7.Flat felled seam or Run and fell seam

Largely utilized in sports clothing, males’s shirts, denims youngsters garments, pyjamas and so on. It gives ample energy to the seam line. This seam might be stitched inside in addition to outdoors the garment.

how to make a flat fell seam

how to sew a flat fell seam


How you can sew a Flat felled seam ?

Make a plain seam.

Press each the seam allowance to at least one aspect. One seam allowance is trimmed to 1/8 inch.
Flip the bigger seam allowance up and over the smaller one, all the way in which practically to the seam line stitched earlier. Use an iron to press this .
Now fold the entire seam over on itself to the opposite aspect in order that the uncooked edge is now hidden and press once more.
Edge sew over the fold. Be sure that a fair distance is maintained from the unique seam line.

Be taught extra a couple of flat fell seam right here.

8. Mock flat fell seam ( additionally Welt seam )

This can be a seam which seems loads like Flat fell seam however is simpler to make.

In contrast to the flat fell seam right here the uncooked edge will not be turned below. So this seam could have uncovered uncooked edges of the seams on the unsuitable aspect. Therefore it’s higher for use with materials which don’t fray or the place the seam won’t be seen. This can be a nice seam for a cumbersome material like felt or artificial leather-based.


How you can sew a mock flat fell seam.

Sew a plain seam as common with proper sides collectively.

Determine on the aspect you may be stitching the seam allowance to.Trim the seam allowance of that aspect to half of what it’s. Press the seam allowance to that aspect. (now the broader seam allowance might be over the smaller one)
Now flip to the rightside of the material. Edgestitch near the seam line.
Then flip to the opposite aspect and sew alongside the uncooked edge. Now there might be two rows of sewing parallel to the seam line.

9.Corded or Piped seam

On this seam, a fabric-covered cording is inserted between the seam line. It’s a ornamental seam and is generally utilized in collars, cuffs, pockets and residential adorning materials.

how to sew corded or piped seam


How you can sew a Corded or piped seam

For this seam bias strip coated cords are used. You’ll be able to both purchase a precovered cording or purchase cording and canopy it your self.It’s sewn with a zipper foot attachment. The wire is stored snugly contained in the bias strip after which utilizing the zipper foot the bias strip is sewn shut sandwiching the wire inside. The stitching line ought to be made as near the wire as potential with out the needle touching the wire.

Checkout the tutorial to make bias tape  and the way to bind material edges with the bias tape

10.Confronted seam

A confronted seam is often used within the seams of armholes, necklines and waistlines. It creates an excellent end to the seam line


How you can sew a confronted seam

Make a going through for the seam
sew it to the seam line
grade the seam allowance to half its width.
Press the seam allowance to the going through aspect
Below sew the seam allowance to the going through near the seam line
This below stitching prevents the seam from rolling to the skin of the garment

Checkout the tutorial for finest methods to make facings.

11.Hemmed fell seam


How you can sew a hemmed fell seam

Make a plain seam. One seam aspect is trimmed to half of the opposite aspect. The opposite seam is turned down and hemmed by hand.

12.Mock French seam (1)

This can be a seam which can be utilized rather than french seam the place a french seam is probably not potential like in a curved seam line, for eg. armholes of a clear gown. This may neatly end the seam line additionally.

mock french seamhow to sew seams in dresses


How you can sew mock french seam


In contrast to the french seam, right here a plain seam with proper aspect collectively is made first.

Place the materials proper sides collectively. Sew a plain seam alongside the stitching line.
Press the seam open after which shut.
Flip within the fringe of the seam allowance of every seam 1/4 inch. Press.
Edge Sew alongside the this folded edge, in order that the uncooked edge is enclosed inside.

13.Mock French seam (3)

That is one other copy of the french seam – related wanting however performed otherwise. 

This seam additionally can be utilized rather than french seam and could be very helpful for stitching skinny delicate materials and for loosely woven materials that frays loads.

To stitch this seam make a plain seam as common.

sewing delicate fabrics

After this trim one of many seam allowances to half.

sewing delicate loosely woven fabric

Flip the opposite seam allowance over the trimmed seam allowance and sew in place. Use a small zig zag sew for this. 

Your new stitching line might be simply outdoors of the seam line.

14.Serged seam

serged seam

You want a Serger or Overlock machine for this seam. On this seam as a substitute of a plain straight sew the serger sew is used on the seams and the seam allowance is trimmed by the machine.This seam provides stretch and suppleness to the seam.
This seam can be utilized below the next situations
1.If it’s not essential that seams are stored flat or open.
2.For free clothes
3.On light-weight materials
4.When stitching with knits


How you can sew a Serged seam

Place proper sides of the materials collectively matching the stitching strains.
Hold the material below the needle
The serger will mechanically trim the seam allowance and enclose the material edges in a thread.
A 3 thread serged seam will give stretch to the seam and a 4 thread serged seam will give energy to the seam. A 3 thread serged seam is often used for knit materials for its stretching property.

15.Slot Seam

This seam which is analogous to the lapped seam, is used for its practical in addition to ornamental properties.


How you can sew a slot seam

Hold a 1 1/2″ broad material, so long as the seam, below the seams. That is used as a backing piece stored between the 2 material lapped alongside the stitching line.


16. Counter seam 

A really appropriate seam for heavy supplies, on this each the uncooked edges are enclosed by each the seam allowances alongside the seam line

    How you can sew a counter seam

Flip below the seam allowances of each the material items to the unsuitable aspect. Press

Place the unsuitable aspect of the primary piece of cloth on the precise aspect of the second piece alongside the perimeters, protecting the seam allowances. Pin in place

Sew alongside the folded edge.

 counter seam

17. Butt seams

The material edges are folded and joined collectively by a zig zag sew or chain sew. That is used when becoming a member of seams the place you do not need any bulk. For instance when stitching lingerie. You may make this type of seam with the assistance of a stitching machine 

18. Sheet seam/linen seam 

This can be a seam the place we use an embroidery sew to hitch the seams. It seems completely fantastically although not as sturdy as the opposite seams. The stitches might be set horizontally or slanting. Antwerp edging stitches, Fishbone sew, blanket sew or herringbone sew can be utilized on this method becoming a member of the seams. These stitches are known as insertion stitches.

How to do that seam

  1. End the material edges

  2. Tack the perimeters of the 2 material ends with a buttonhole bar sew

  3. Minimize a strip of paper of 1 inch width and the size equal to the material edge

  4. Baste the perimeters of the material to the paper in order that the space between them is 1/2 inch 

  5. Work the stitches between the material edges; Interlacing, knots, twisting all  work between the perimeters

insertion stitches

For extra particulars checkout the put up – Insertion stitches 

19. Hand stitched seam – with ladder sew

Ladder sew is without doubt one of the invisible stitches that can provide you a fantastically hand sewn seam.

You’ll be able to fold the perimeters and stitch alongside the folded edge as within the image given beneath. If you tighten the stitches you get a neat seam.

Be taught extra about this sew on this put up on slip sew or ladder sew  or within the put up on invisible stitches

20. Strap seam

On this seam an additional strip of cloth is connected on prime of the seam line. The material strip is ready by urgent the lengthy edges 1/4 inches to the within after which stored on prime of the seam concealing the seam line and stitching alongside the perimeters.

21. Taped seam

This refers to any seam sealed with a tape for waterproofing/climate proofing. On this seam a strip of cloth/ tape is sewn to the seam to stop water or any components from seeping into the within of the merchandise. The tape may be added to stop distortion.

Associated put up

Princess seam

Various kinds of Hem  ( Hand stitching a hem)

Various kinds of stitching machine made hem

All about Seam Allowance

How you can sew invisible hem – 4 methods

How you can stop seam puckering

What to do about skipped stitches on a seam.


  learn how to sew

free sewing patterns



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